These effervescent diamond leaves designed by Tiffany’s Jean Schlumberger appear as if they are growing on precious vines. Necklace in 18k gold with diamonds set in platinum.
In 1956, the president of Tiffany & Co., Walter Hoving, asked Schlumberger to begin designing for the firm. He had his own workshop at the company until his retirement in the late 1970s and was eventually made a Vice-President.
Schlumberger’s designs at Tiffany & Co. were remarkable for their whimsical interpretations of natural forms. He was especially inspired by sea creatures and other animals. Diana Vreeland wrote that
Schlumberger “appreciates the miracle of jewels. For him, they are the ways and means to the realization of his dreams.”
He quickly built an impressive client base that included John F. Kennedy, the Duchess of Windsor, Babe Paley, Greta Garbo, Rachel Lambert Mellon, C.Z. Guest, Gloria Guinness, Françoise de la Renta,
Princess Marina, Duchess of Kent, Lyn Revson, Gloria Vanderbilt, Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. Jacqueline Kennedy wore so many of Schlumberger’s bracelets that the press dubbed them “Jackie bracelets”.
He was a very good friend of Cristóbal Balenciaga, Emilio Terry, Diana Vreeland and Hubert de Givenchy.
One of the most famous pieces that Schlumberger created was the mounting for the famed Tiffany
Diamond, which was in the firm’s collection since the nineteenth century. The brooch, entitled “Bird on a Rock”, incorporates the impressive 128.54 carats (25.71 g) yellow diamond in a fanciful setting typical of Schlumberger’s style.
Schlumberger died in Paris and is buried at Isola di San Michele.
Schlumberger remains one of only four jewelers that Tiffany & Co. has allowed to sign their work: the others are Paloma Picasso, Elsa Peretti and Frank Gehry.
To learn more about this necklace, visit Jean Schlumburger.